August 28, 2013
After that much needed nap, I got up early and headed out on the road again with one purpose only: make as many miles as quickly as possible. All the site seeing was over and the journey home had begun in earnest. Early on I started noticing the day wasn't going to be stellar in terms of enjoyment. The temperature was rising quickly and I still hadn't fully recovered from the previous day's ride.
Kansas isn't the most picturesque state in the union, but it does have some interesting geographical features. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures so you'll have to take my word for it.
After much pain and suffering, I stopped at a rest stop just west of St Louis. It was extremely hot and I was yet again exhausted. The thought of having to continue the day's journey to Atlanta in the heat was more than I could bear. Fortunately my oldest sister lives east of St Louis in Illinois and I had planned to visit her on the return trip if I had time. I made time.
It took me another hour and a half to get to my sisters house. It was such a relief to get off the motorcycle and just lie down. I spent the next day visiting with my sister and nephews. We had a very nice time.
August 30, 2013
After a day of rest, I felt much better and the trip to Atlanta from Illinois was uneventful other than a few showers here and there. It's not that bad with the rain suit on.
The mileage for the entire trip was 5772 miles and I averaged over 500 miles a day. The longest day of the trip was just under 700 miles. I've decided that if I am to do another long trip, I will not constrain myself to a schedule such that I wear myself out trying to make more miles than is comfortable. Otherwise, it was a lot of fun and maybe I'll do it again.
Rocky Mountain National Park
August 27, 2013
I got up early and headed out as quickly as possible. To get to RMNP, I had to go through Boulder, Co. As it turned out, the traffic became a problem and it was hot. I got a little over heated and somewhat exhausted sitting in the traffic of Boulder. I had totally misjudged the distance to the park which probably contributed to my exhaustion. My optimistic expectations played a bad trick on my mental well being. Ultimately I made it to the park at a reasonable time, but my countenance was not as chirpy as it could have been given the circumstances.
Once in the park, I felt better and was looking forward to relaxing a bit in the saddle while taking in the view. The park is very nice and essentially one long road that loops back to I-70. It also contains one of the higher elevation highways -- just a bit over 12,000 feet -- in the lower 48 states.
As I was plodding along a shaded portion of the aforementioned highway, I noticed a vehicle parked along the side with an official looking person standing as if to signal oncoming traffic. I slowed and raised my visor a bit to get some air on my face and prepare myself for conversation. At that moment, a flying insect with a stinger flew into my helmet and popped me right on the cheek. Ouch! Considering the challenging roads, my earlier exhaustion, the elevation and the newly injected venom in my face, I decided to stop at the parking area just ahead to rest a bit. I didn't want to take any chances with any allergic reactions while traversing the mountain roads.
After some time, I decided that I would be okay to continue the climb to the top of the mountain. I don't think I was at elevation long enough to feel the affects of altitude and the swelling of my cheek subsided quickly. I felt pretty good for the most part so I was off again.
It wasn't long before I was descending from the mountain and ultimately out of the park onto the state roads leading to I-70. I felt kind of cheated having to navigate the same stretch of I-70 that I had traversed that morning. If I had to do it again, I would have entered the park where I exited and exited where I exited. Boulder was no fun to navigate. Hopefully, there will be a next time.
On the road again in earnest, I got to Denver right at rush hour. It wasn't that bad and I got through it soon enough. It's a very dramatic landscape change east of Denver. It's as flat as can be and nothing in sight for miles and miles except fields of grain...
and those worthless wind turbines...
I'll believe in wind power when it is no longer subsidized by the government. Rant over...
According to my fuzzy recollections of Google maps, I had ascertained that Kansas was only about an hour or so east of Denver. Yet again my optimistic expectations were completely wrong and I had set myself up for disappointment. It was more like two and a half hours and my goal of getting to Kansas before dark was dealt a harsh blow after about an hour on the road. My keen observations of the mileage postings for upcoming cities brought a sense of reality to my situation. I wasn't going to make Kansas before dark; I wasn't really sure what I wanted to do. I decided to push on as long as possible. I wanted to get home and rest up a few days before starting back to work.
Once into Kansas, I decided to take in a rest stop to prepare for an epic push. I found a nice spot by a picnic table and set up my camp chair on the grass away from the parking area. While sitting enjoying the cool night air, I came to the realization that I was really tired. I had been averaging over 500 miles a day for the last eight days or so and my body was rebelling. I was miserable and wanted nothing more to do with that motorcycle. Unfortunately, reality required that I get back on and make more miles. I did for as long as I could stand it. I finally stopped in Russel, Kansas at 3:00AM. I got a quick cheap hotel room to take a nap. I was completely spent.
I got up early and headed out as quickly as possible. To get to RMNP, I had to go through Boulder, Co. As it turned out, the traffic became a problem and it was hot. I got a little over heated and somewhat exhausted sitting in the traffic of Boulder. I had totally misjudged the distance to the park which probably contributed to my exhaustion. My optimistic expectations played a bad trick on my mental well being. Ultimately I made it to the park at a reasonable time, but my countenance was not as chirpy as it could have been given the circumstances.
Once in the park, I felt better and was looking forward to relaxing a bit in the saddle while taking in the view. The park is very nice and essentially one long road that loops back to I-70. It also contains one of the higher elevation highways -- just a bit over 12,000 feet -- in the lower 48 states.
As I was plodding along a shaded portion of the aforementioned highway, I noticed a vehicle parked along the side with an official looking person standing as if to signal oncoming traffic. I slowed and raised my visor a bit to get some air on my face and prepare myself for conversation. At that moment, a flying insect with a stinger flew into my helmet and popped me right on the cheek. Ouch! Considering the challenging roads, my earlier exhaustion, the elevation and the newly injected venom in my face, I decided to stop at the parking area just ahead to rest a bit. I didn't want to take any chances with any allergic reactions while traversing the mountain roads.
After some time, I decided that I would be okay to continue the climb to the top of the mountain. I don't think I was at elevation long enough to feel the affects of altitude and the swelling of my cheek subsided quickly. I felt pretty good for the most part so I was off again.
It wasn't long before I was descending from the mountain and ultimately out of the park onto the state roads leading to I-70. I felt kind of cheated having to navigate the same stretch of I-70 that I had traversed that morning. If I had to do it again, I would have entered the park where I exited and exited where I exited. Boulder was no fun to navigate. Hopefully, there will be a next time.
On the road again in earnest, I got to Denver right at rush hour. It wasn't that bad and I got through it soon enough. It's a very dramatic landscape change east of Denver. It's as flat as can be and nothing in sight for miles and miles except fields of grain...
and those worthless wind turbines...
I'll believe in wind power when it is no longer subsidized by the government. Rant over...
According to my fuzzy recollections of Google maps, I had ascertained that Kansas was only about an hour or so east of Denver. Yet again my optimistic expectations were completely wrong and I had set myself up for disappointment. It was more like two and a half hours and my goal of getting to Kansas before dark was dealt a harsh blow after about an hour on the road. My keen observations of the mileage postings for upcoming cities brought a sense of reality to my situation. I wasn't going to make Kansas before dark; I wasn't really sure what I wanted to do. I decided to push on as long as possible. I wanted to get home and rest up a few days before starting back to work.
Once into Kansas, I decided to take in a rest stop to prepare for an epic push. I found a nice spot by a picnic table and set up my camp chair on the grass away from the parking area. While sitting enjoying the cool night air, I came to the realization that I was really tired. I had been averaging over 500 miles a day for the last eight days or so and my body was rebelling. I was miserable and wanted nothing more to do with that motorcycle. Unfortunately, reality required that I get back on and make more miles. I did for as long as I could stand it. I finally stopped in Russel, Kansas at 3:00AM. I got a quick cheap hotel room to take a nap. I was completely spent.
Arches National Park
August 26, 2013
Arches is the one national park I wanted to visit last year on my grand adventure but didn't find the time. It's really hard to imagine the rock formations in the park without actually seeing them. They are simply amazing. Contemplating how they might have formed is an adventure unto itself. The park isn't as big as I had thought, but it's definitely a must see. To me it's one of the more spectacular NPs in the system.
And that was that.
It only took about four hours to see the park, so there was plenty of daylight left when I exited. I was tempted to tour Canyon Lands NP which is just next door, but I didn't have a season pass and the schedule pressure was too much. Therefore, I got on I-70 and was off to Colorado to visit the Rocky Mountain NP. I-70 through Colorado is really scenic and I was enjoying the ride as much as possible considering I had been on the motorcycle all day.
As I was riding east toward Denver, the color of the sky over the eastern horizon kept getting darker and more ominous looking. It got downright ugly. I really don't like riding in biblical proportion thunder storms, so I got off at the first opportune moment which was Vail, Co. This was a point in the journey where I decidedly was not having 'fun'. I was exhausted, it was getting dark and the skies looked like a scene from a weather channel special. The added pressure of finding a reasonably priced hotel had me vowing to never again undertake such a journey as this.
Luckily, I found a hotel before it started to down-pour. I even managed to walk across the street between rain showers and get a bite to eat before retiring for the evening. All in all, it was a good day, but my mood had become a bit more somber with the realization that I was 1500 miles from home, on a tight schedule and physically spent.
Arches is the one national park I wanted to visit last year on my grand adventure but didn't find the time. It's really hard to imagine the rock formations in the park without actually seeing them. They are simply amazing. Contemplating how they might have formed is an adventure unto itself. The park isn't as big as I had thought, but it's definitely a must see. To me it's one of the more spectacular NPs in the system.
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| Park Avenue |
And that was that.
It only took about four hours to see the park, so there was plenty of daylight left when I exited. I was tempted to tour Canyon Lands NP which is just next door, but I didn't have a season pass and the schedule pressure was too much. Therefore, I got on I-70 and was off to Colorado to visit the Rocky Mountain NP. I-70 through Colorado is really scenic and I was enjoying the ride as much as possible considering I had been on the motorcycle all day.
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| Colorado Rest Stop |
Luckily, I found a hotel before it started to down-pour. I even managed to walk across the street between rain showers and get a bite to eat before retiring for the evening. All in all, it was a good day, but my mood had become a bit more somber with the realization that I was 1500 miles from home, on a tight schedule and physically spent.
Onward To Moab
August 25, 2013
The next day started well enough. The weather was fine and I got out of the hotel at a reasonable hour. I took S-89 to S-6 to S-191 south all the way to Moab, Utah. The scenery was very diverse and the ride most enjoyable; it was a good day.
While passing through Provo, Utah, I noticed many young men in black pants and white shirts with ties. It took me a while to realize I was on the campus of Brigham Young University. In a moment or so, I was passing by Lavell Edwards stadium. I couldn't resist snapping a photo or two.
Upon arrival in Moab, I immediately started looking for a place to stay. Eventually, I found a room in a quaint little hotel run by a very eccentric looking woman. She appeared to be in her mid 40s and had a most radiant shade of synthetic red to her hair. From the tattoos and piercings, I could tell she was a bit of a moon beam -- not that there's anything wrong with that. Anyway, she was friendly enough and her place was clean, so my stay was most enjoyable.
After settling in, I went out and had a nice dinner to make up for the previous night of trail mix. I slept very well that night.
The next day started well enough. The weather was fine and I got out of the hotel at a reasonable hour. I took S-89 to S-6 to S-191 south all the way to Moab, Utah. The scenery was very diverse and the ride most enjoyable; it was a good day.
While passing through Provo, Utah, I noticed many young men in black pants and white shirts with ties. It took me a while to realize I was on the campus of Brigham Young University. In a moment or so, I was passing by Lavell Edwards stadium. I couldn't resist snapping a photo or two.
Upon arrival in Moab, I immediately started looking for a place to stay. Eventually, I found a room in a quaint little hotel run by a very eccentric looking woman. She appeared to be in her mid 40s and had a most radiant shade of synthetic red to her hair. From the tattoos and piercings, I could tell she was a bit of a moon beam -- not that there's anything wrong with that. Anyway, she was friendly enough and her place was clean, so my stay was most enjoyable.
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| Happy Happy Happy |
Utah Via Yellowstone
August 24, 2013
I can't believe I didn't take a picture of the hotel. Now I can't remember the name of the place. All I can remember of my stay was sitting on the grass in front of the hotel in my camp chair getting eaten alive by some foreign-to-me insect. Thankfully, there were no lasting marks the next morning.
The weather was a little ominous as the day began but later improved and I never got into any unbearable conditions that might have impeded my progress.
The destination for the day was Moab, Utah at a leisurely pace through Yellowstone. My visit last year to Yellowstone on the motorcycle was enjoyable enough, but I didn't really get a chance to see that much. As it turned out, I didn't see a whole lot more than my first trip, but I did get a chance to visit the canyon.
Yellowstone is interesting, but it's probably better suited for folks with four-wheeled vehicles, camping gear and a lot of time. Everything is so spread out, it's not easily explored in a day or two. The scenery is spectacular and the wildlife is unique, but it's a little tedious to dwell in the park on a motorcycle.
I did stop and have lunch on the lake. When I came through in the spring of 2012, it was frozen. This time it was all water but the breeze coming off the lake was really cold. I also couldn't get rid of the ravens. They must get a lot of free lunches.
After lunch, I headed on south through Grand Teton. It's a magnificent place, but it's much prettier in the spring. The snow-capped mountains weren't so "snow-capped" in August. That didn't stop me from taking a break and snapping a couple of photos.
After Teton, it was time to make some miles. The weather was agreeable and I had a schedule to keep. I had to be back in Atlanta September 3rd to start a new contract, so I couldn't linger any longer than necessary. But first, a bite to eat at the local Micky Dees in Jackson, Wy. Actually, they have a very tasty salad that I like. After that, it was all business.
I would have continued much further, but the skies took a major turn for the worse and I had to stop at an obscure little place in southern Wyoming or Idaho; I can't remember completely. It appeared there were only two guests in the place and we both were riding Yamaha FJRs. As I pulled up to my room, the other guest poked his head out of the door and said hello. That was right before the bottom dropped out of the skies. Bummer, there was no place to get anything to eat, so I ended up dining on trail mix.
That's how the day ended. Me trying to sleep in an obscure motel with little food and a little behind schedule. I was averaging about 500 miles a day at that point and it was starting to wear on my body.
I can't believe I didn't take a picture of the hotel. Now I can't remember the name of the place. All I can remember of my stay was sitting on the grass in front of the hotel in my camp chair getting eaten alive by some foreign-to-me insect. Thankfully, there were no lasting marks the next morning.
The weather was a little ominous as the day began but later improved and I never got into any unbearable conditions that might have impeded my progress.
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| A Little Wet This Morning |
Yellowstone is interesting, but it's probably better suited for folks with four-wheeled vehicles, camping gear and a lot of time. Everything is so spread out, it's not easily explored in a day or two. The scenery is spectacular and the wildlife is unique, but it's a little tedious to dwell in the park on a motorcycle.
I did stop and have lunch on the lake. When I came through in the spring of 2012, it was frozen. This time it was all water but the breeze coming off the lake was really cold. I also couldn't get rid of the ravens. They must get a lot of free lunches.
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| No Free Lunch For You |
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| My Trusty Steed |
I would have continued much further, but the skies took a major turn for the worse and I had to stop at an obscure little place in southern Wyoming or Idaho; I can't remember completely. It appeared there were only two guests in the place and we both were riding Yamaha FJRs. As I pulled up to my room, the other guest poked his head out of the door and said hello. That was right before the bottom dropped out of the skies. Bummer, there was no place to get anything to eat, so I ended up dining on trail mix.
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| A Couple of Rain Drenched FJRs |
Beartooth Pass
August 23, 2013
Last night, I slept pretty good considering the hard ground and windy conditions. I don't know what this place used to be, but it is currently the most rocky soil I've ever seen. I couldn't get any of my tent stakes in the ground more than a couple of inches or so. It's good the wind didn't get any worse than when I put the tent up because I don't think the stakes holding the rain fly would have survived. As it was, the winds were brisk and declined as the night progressed providing a nice environment for sleep.
Last night, I slept pretty good considering the hard ground and windy conditions. I don't know what this place used to be, but it is currently the most rocky soil I've ever seen. I couldn't get any of my tent stakes in the ground more than a couple of inches or so. It's good the wind didn't get any worse than when I put the tent up because I don't think the stakes holding the rain fly would have survived. As it was, the winds were brisk and declined as the night progressed providing a nice environment for sleep.
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| Luxury... |
After packing up, I contemplated having
breakfast in the diner but decided to pass. After using the
facilities, I observed the place was too busy and I was anxious to
get out on the road. The day's destination of Yellowstone via Bear
Tooth pass had a little uncertainty due to fires along the pass; I
would rather save my time for the end of the day in case there are
complications. I rolled onto I-90 just before 8:00AM... one of my
earliest starts to date.
The route for the day was along I-90 to just past Billingsly, Mt where I could exit onto S-212/Bear Tooth highway. Just before exiting, I stopped at a big truck stop with a McDonalds to get a quick bite to eat and some ice for my cooler. I really appreciate the accessible drink and ice machine arrangement at most McDonalds. My cooler is very small and can only hold about six drinks maximum, so I only need a little bit of ice to keep things cool. It's so nice to take on 'free' ice in the morning while having a cup of coffee. While sipping on my joe, I learned from some of the patrons that the pass was open. That was good to hear because I didn't know where I would go if it had been closed.
The route for the day was along I-90 to just past Billingsly, Mt where I could exit onto S-212/Bear Tooth highway. Just before exiting, I stopped at a big truck stop with a McDonalds to get a quick bite to eat and some ice for my cooler. I really appreciate the accessible drink and ice machine arrangement at most McDonalds. My cooler is very small and can only hold about six drinks maximum, so I only need a little bit of ice to keep things cool. It's so nice to take on 'free' ice in the morning while having a cup of coffee. While sipping on my joe, I learned from some of the patrons that the pass was open. That was good to hear because I didn't know where I would go if it had been closed.
As I was preparing to leave the parking
lot, I observed a couple of free wheeling young ladies sitting on the
sidewalk. They were attired in a 60's hitch-hiking-hippie motif and
had more leg hair than I've seen since my high-school football days.
If that wasn't charming enough, they also had a couple of scroungy
looking mutts on leashes. I could only imagine the smell and wondered
who might be brave enough to give that crew a ride. The dogs alone
would be a deal killer for me. Maybe they made it OK.
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| Just a Little Smoke |
The Bear Tooth Pass didn't disappoint.
I've heard it referred to as the most beautiful drive in America and
I can't argue with that assessment. It is spectacular scenery for
miles upon miles and from a sporting motorcyclist's perspective, the
roads are engaging enough to make it even better.
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| Do The Pads Make My Hips Look Big? |
On advice I received from a fellow two-wheel
enthusiast earlier in the day, I decided to stop in Cook City, Mt for
the evening. It's just outside the Yellowstone NP gate and the last
chance to get a hotel room. I was just too tired from the previous
night's camping to sleep on the ground, and it looked as though a
storm was brewing anyway. A restful night was an absolute must; my
body was really being a painful nag.
Once I got to Cook City, I cruised up
and down the main street a couple of times before stopping at the
visitor center to ask about accommodations. They weren't that
helpful, so I decided to stop at the first place that looked
appropriate. Good fortune came my was as someone had just canceled a
reservation and I got a decent room at a fair price.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
August 22, 2013
The next morning, I got up and out of that place as quickly as possible. It turned out to not be quite as bad as my first impression the night before, but it still wasn't a place in which I wanted to linger. I did notice the woman from the night before was in the parking lot "working". If you define work as standing around looking at the ground, she was hard at it. She obviously had issues. Hey, at least she's doing something. I digress...
Out on the road, I was in good spirits as the weather was great and I got an early start. It wasn't long before I was at the entrance to the park. I stopped in to get some information and snap a photo or two. It really is a beautiful landscape.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is part of the 'badlands' and as such, is very similar to the Badlands National Park in South Dakota with the major exception being wild life. There's a whole bunch of Bison in TRNP and I had the good fortune to see them up close and personal. It was actually a little nerve racking given I was on a motorcycle and at the mercy of those great beasts. At one point I was stuck behind a minivan that was surrounded and the only avenue of escape I had was reverse. I think we all know how fast a motorcycle can go in reverse. The picture below was snapped before I put the camera away and pulled in behind the stopped four-wheeled vehicles farther ahead on the road.
That was harrowing enough and I managed to get into two more herds of buffalo before exiting the park for the day. At one point, I got an enthusiastic thumbs up from a woman in a van after she witnessed me weaving through a herd on the road. Glad somebody noticed.
Just in case some folks might be wondering, the American Bison can get up to 2000lbs and run 35MPH. They are also very unpredictable and responsible for most wildlife attacks on humans in the national parks. They can be down right ornery at times. That knowledge was ever present on my mind while passing through the herds.
The park is a big loop with a couple of side roads and I managed to cover most of it in just under three hours or so. After that, I diverted to the little town of Medora, ND which is just on the edge of the park. It is a very nice little tourist town and after cruising the streets for a couple of passes looking for a place to eat, I spotted what looked like an old style saloon. How could I resist? After having a quick bite to eat, I spent the rest of the afternoon having a couple of beers chatting with some folks at the bar. Eventually, I pulled away from the town of Medora about 4:00PM headed for Montana. I spent way too long in the bar.
I got busy and made quite a few miles before I pulled off the interstate when I saw a sign indicating services. It was getting dark and I needed to find a place to sleep for the evening. I pulled into the parking lot of what looked like a diner from a dusty movie set. I was a little disappointed. I was hoping for something a little nicer, but decided to go inside and see what was up. There were only four patrons in the place and I felt a little out of place. No worries, I became fast friends with the cook before the evening was over and found out that I could camp out back.
Setting up the tent in the dark was an adventure given the wind had really picked up. I had to load the tent with some gear before I could assemble the thing. Otherwise, it really wanted to blow away. In the end, it got constructed and I went to sleep. Day over.
The next morning, I got up and out of that place as quickly as possible. It turned out to not be quite as bad as my first impression the night before, but it still wasn't a place in which I wanted to linger. I did notice the woman from the night before was in the parking lot "working". If you define work as standing around looking at the ground, she was hard at it. She obviously had issues. Hey, at least she's doing something. I digress...
Out on the road, I was in good spirits as the weather was great and I got an early start. It wasn't long before I was at the entrance to the park. I stopped in to get some information and snap a photo or two. It really is a beautiful landscape.
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| Theodore Roosevelt National Park |
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| Theodore Roosevelt National Park |
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is part of the 'badlands' and as such, is very similar to the Badlands National Park in South Dakota with the major exception being wild life. There's a whole bunch of Bison in TRNP and I had the good fortune to see them up close and personal. It was actually a little nerve racking given I was on a motorcycle and at the mercy of those great beasts. At one point I was stuck behind a minivan that was surrounded and the only avenue of escape I had was reverse. I think we all know how fast a motorcycle can go in reverse. The picture below was snapped before I put the camera away and pulled in behind the stopped four-wheeled vehicles farther ahead on the road.
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| TRNP Bison |
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| Another Herd |
The park is a big loop with a couple of side roads and I managed to cover most of it in just under three hours or so. After that, I diverted to the little town of Medora, ND which is just on the edge of the park. It is a very nice little tourist town and after cruising the streets for a couple of passes looking for a place to eat, I spotted what looked like an old style saloon. How could I resist? After having a quick bite to eat, I spent the rest of the afternoon having a couple of beers chatting with some folks at the bar. Eventually, I pulled away from the town of Medora about 4:00PM headed for Montana. I spent way too long in the bar.
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| Montana State Line |
Setting up the tent in the dark was an adventure given the wind had really picked up. I had to load the tent with some gear before I could assemble the thing. Otherwise, it really wanted to blow away. In the end, it got constructed and I went to sleep. Day over.
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| Montana Sunset |
North Dakota
August 21, 2013
The day started well and the weather was fine. Duluth and beyond was the goal for the day and everything was go. The segment from Ashland to Duluth was short and sweet and it wasn’t long before Duluth came into view.
I was curious to see the place. I lived in Duluth, Ga for five years and understand that it’s name came from Duluth, Mn as they are at opposite ends of the rail line. I was surprised at how massive the industry looked on the river. I’m sure Duluth, Mn has plenty of nice areas, but I didn’t have time to see as I was trying to make miles on the two lane roads. A light rain had started falling as I passed through Duluth. Fortunately it didn't last that long and the skies cleared somewhat as I went along.
It’s not a straight shot from Duluth to Fargo, ND and my connection point to I-94, so I had to take some of the more obscure state roads. The scenery was pleasant enough, but making time on two-lane roads requires persistence and passing a bunch of vehicles along the way. The roads are so straight it wasn't much of a challenge at all on the FJR.
Minnesota is geographically interesting as it slowly changes from a wilderness tundra look in the northeastern regions to a western plains look in the ‘west’. I can only imagine how cold it gets in the winter, but it looked rather pleasant in the mild summer weather.
I was glad to get to North Dakota. It was the last state in the lower 48 that I had never visited. I would have stopped and snapped a photo of the state line to mark the occasion if I had seen a sign indicating as much, but there wasn't one. I did however do the next best thing and stop at the first rest stop on I-94 to take some rest and refreshments before assaulting the final leg of the day.
North Dakota is not the most scenic landscape I've ever encountered, but it does have it's charm. The wide open plains are fascinating to traverse if the temperatures are reasonable and you're not being blown around by high winds that are common to the area. Last year crossing South Dakota was pure agony due to those winds and excessive heat. This year, it wasn't bad at all and the 300 miles to Dickenson, ND went by with very little distress. There were a couple of times I thought rain might be a possibility as I saw clouds in the distance that looked a little ominous, but nothing ever materialized and life was good. The speed limit is 75MPH and I was maintaining right at 85MPH. My throttle lock worked really well on the long flat roads.
I made really good time but wasn't sure where I should stop to visit Theodore Roosevelt National park; so I stopped in Dickenson, ND. It might not have been the best place to stop, but it was a convenient place and only 40 miles from the park. I was in for a shock as it relates to hotel rooms. The oil boom in ND has greatly inflated the prices of rooms in the general area and it took a while to find a place to bed down for the evening. Eventually I found a seedy hotel room for a reasonable price and felt lucky to get that. While unloading my bike, a woman approached me asking what was the time. I informed her that it was about 8:00 to which she asked, "morning or night?". I thought she was joking at first, but later learned that she was one of the fine employees of the establishment and had gotten her mornings and evenings confused. Yikes.
There was nothing to do in Dickenson but take a shower and go to bed. The sooner I got out of that place, the better. The room seemed clean enough, but I just didn't like the locale, and the hotel staff was creeping me out a bit. The next day's agenda included Theodore Roosevelt National Park, about 40 miles away, and getting up early was the goal.
The day started well and the weather was fine. Duluth and beyond was the goal for the day and everything was go. The segment from Ashland to Duluth was short and sweet and it wasn’t long before Duluth came into view.
I was curious to see the place. I lived in Duluth, Ga for five years and understand that it’s name came from Duluth, Mn as they are at opposite ends of the rail line. I was surprised at how massive the industry looked on the river. I’m sure Duluth, Mn has plenty of nice areas, but I didn’t have time to see as I was trying to make miles on the two lane roads. A light rain had started falling as I passed through Duluth. Fortunately it didn't last that long and the skies cleared somewhat as I went along.
It’s not a straight shot from Duluth to Fargo, ND and my connection point to I-94, so I had to take some of the more obscure state roads. The scenery was pleasant enough, but making time on two-lane roads requires persistence and passing a bunch of vehicles along the way. The roads are so straight it wasn't much of a challenge at all on the FJR.
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| Minnesota West of Duluth |
I was glad to get to North Dakota. It was the last state in the lower 48 that I had never visited. I would have stopped and snapped a photo of the state line to mark the occasion if I had seen a sign indicating as much, but there wasn't one. I did however do the next best thing and stop at the first rest stop on I-94 to take some rest and refreshments before assaulting the final leg of the day.
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| ND Rest Stop |
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| ND Plains |
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| ND Sunflowers |
There was nothing to do in Dickenson but take a shower and go to bed. The sooner I got out of that place, the better. The room seemed clean enough, but I just didn't like the locale, and the hotel staff was creeping me out a bit. The next day's agenda included Theodore Roosevelt National Park, about 40 miles away, and getting up early was the goal.
Ashland Wisconsin
August 20, 2013
I slept reasonably well in the tent and as usual, packing up the gear was no fun. It went well enough I suppose. I did chat with my neighbor a bit before departing. He offered me a cup of coffee and I graciously accepted. While sipping the Joe, he commenced to telling stories about his travels. I do enjoy travel tales, but I needed to go as daylight was a burning, so we bid farewell. I was off.
Once again, the weather was just about perfect and the ride was most enjoyable. It wasn’t long before I was in Mackinaw City, which I suppose is the upper-most point of the lower peninsula and where the Mackinac Bridge connects to the upper peninsula of Michigan. One of my goals of this trip was to cross the Mackinac Bridge and it wasn’t long before I was in the inner lane in the middle of the bridge. Interestingly, the inner lane of the bridge is metal grating and provides a flying type of experience on a motorcycle. Not only is the traction a little squirrelly on the bike, looking down one can see the water almost 200 feet below. Woo hoo!
The Mackinac bridge, or big Mac as the locals call it, is probably the most amazing structure that hardly anyone has ever heard of. It is the longest shore-to-shore suspension bridge in the western hemisphere and an amazing feat of engineering. It compares favorably to the Golden Gate in magnitude and stature and a grand testament to man’s ingenuity and determination. I’m happy that I was able to see the beast up close and personal.
The weather was very good for viewing the Mackinac, but unfortunately there weren’t that many vantage points from which to photograph on the UP. Not knowing this, I didn’t stop at the better sites on the LP thus explaining my lack of a decent photo. I was fortunate enough to get a shot of me and my motorcycle with the bridge in the background. While checking my GPS, a fellow motorcycle enthusiast stopped and offered to snap a few. This is the best one.
On past Mackinaw City and into the UP on S-2, the landscape took on a more primitive and remote appearance. It was quite lovely and serene plodding along on a straight two-lane road for miles on end in the wilderness. I was surprised at the lack of cars as well. At times, I felt as though I was the only person around for miles and miles. This was the bulk of the riding for the day. Very nice…
About the middle of the UP, I cut over from S-2 on the the lake Michigan side to the Superior side via S-77 to S-28. On the Superior side, the ride was also very good. After a long stretch of straight roads through the woods, I rolled into Munising, Mi. What a beautiful little town. It sits right on South Bay and is shielded from Lake Superior by Grand Island. I was rather tired at this point from all my riding, so I decided to stop at the first rest area I could find. It must have been my lucky day, because the scenic overlook I stopped at was perfect for refreshments and had a splendid view. As a bonus, I was alone for most of my time there. Toward the end, a couple arrived on a motorcycle and we struck up a conversation that lasted a long time. They were an old married couple from Michigan and we became fast friends. They even invited me to visit any time at their home. Now that's hospitality.
Back on the road again, it's getting dark...
As the sun kept getting lower and lower relative to the distance I wanted to go, it became obvious that my goal of Duluth was out of the question. Upon arriving in Ashland, Wi in the dark, it was apparent that more miles would not be a good idea. I couldn’t keep my face shield clear of bugs and I was tired. Fortunately, I was able to find a hotel room in a typical mom-and-pop Indian establishment. It was clean enough and the ‘good’ hotels were full.
A long day of riding comes to an end. Distance traveled equals 495 miles.
I slept reasonably well in the tent and as usual, packing up the gear was no fun. It went well enough I suppose. I did chat with my neighbor a bit before departing. He offered me a cup of coffee and I graciously accepted. While sipping the Joe, he commenced to telling stories about his travels. I do enjoy travel tales, but I needed to go as daylight was a burning, so we bid farewell. I was off.
Once again, the weather was just about perfect and the ride was most enjoyable. It wasn’t long before I was in Mackinaw City, which I suppose is the upper-most point of the lower peninsula and where the Mackinac Bridge connects to the upper peninsula of Michigan. One of my goals of this trip was to cross the Mackinac Bridge and it wasn’t long before I was in the inner lane in the middle of the bridge. Interestingly, the inner lane of the bridge is metal grating and provides a flying type of experience on a motorcycle. Not only is the traction a little squirrelly on the bike, looking down one can see the water almost 200 feet below. Woo hoo!
The Mackinac bridge, or big Mac as the locals call it, is probably the most amazing structure that hardly anyone has ever heard of. It is the longest shore-to-shore suspension bridge in the western hemisphere and an amazing feat of engineering. It compares favorably to the Golden Gate in magnitude and stature and a grand testament to man’s ingenuity and determination. I’m happy that I was able to see the beast up close and personal.
The weather was very good for viewing the Mackinac, but unfortunately there weren’t that many vantage points from which to photograph on the UP. Not knowing this, I didn’t stop at the better sites on the LP thus explaining my lack of a decent photo. I was fortunate enough to get a shot of me and my motorcycle with the bridge in the background. While checking my GPS, a fellow motorcycle enthusiast stopped and offered to snap a few. This is the best one.
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| Mac and Me |
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| Wilderness |
I was surprised at the lake Michigan beaches. They looked very similar to the gulf coast beaches.
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| Lake Michigan Beach |
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| Sweet Rest Stop! |
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| Wisconsin Sunset |
A long day of riding comes to an end. Distance traveled equals 495 miles.
Camping on Lake Huron
The fifth day of the road trip got the adventure underway in earnest. My original goal was to go up the western shore of Michigan but due to a GPS blunder, I ended up taking the eastern route: S-23 along Lake Huron to Saginaw City. Such is the way of Motorcycle touring. It’s really bothersome to continually adjust a GPS on the fly, so second-guessing and uncertainty are a constant with mistakes creeping in from time-to-time. After many miles are invested in an error, it’s just as well to redefine and take the new route.
Once I got off the interstate onto S-23 and into the upper regions of Michigan, the ride became very pleasant. The weather was just about perfect and the shoreline road was scenic and in good shape. The scenery consisted mostly of well kept houses between the shoreline and road with occasional small towns and breaks to view the lake. There were also plenty of rest stops to tempt. Being a sucker for rest stops, I pulled over at one and tended to some resting and business; I needed to make a phone call and my backside was getting a little uncomfortable. My compliments to the state of Michigan on such well kept facilities.
I don’t know what it is, but people just can’t resist talking to me when I’m out on my bike fully loaded for touring. They are very interested in my travels and want to share their own stories which is why rest stops can sometimes take a lot longer than one would think. That’s part of the fun so there’s no use in worrying about the time.
Ultimately I stopped at Harrisville State Park and set up my tent for the evening. After putting up the tent and piling all of my crud into the thing, I noticed there was a big tree leaning directly over the tent. I'm sure the tree is probably still leaning at that same spot, but I wasn't going to take any chances. I unloaded the tent and moved it to a more suitable location.
The layout of the campground and the lateness of the day did not give me much of a chance to get to know my camping neighbors (and possibly score some free food ), so I headed out for dinner in the little town of Harrisville. I found a sports bar right off the main road and settled in for a feast of hot wings with fries. Riding all day makes for some peculiar dining choices. I also had a couple of beers and watched a little pre-season football.
On the way back to the campsite, I stopped at the local convenience store for fuel and snacks. The young man working there looked as though he wanted to be somewhere else so I struck up a conversation about his apparent boredom. He freely admitted his desire to be elsewhere and proudly informed me that he would be leaving for Marine Corp boot camp in a couple of days. I could see that he was excited and anxious. I was very impressed with this young man and couldn’t help but feel concern for his safety and future.
Back to the campground I went. It was dark when I arrived at my site and I pulled up to an area where I thought there were rocks on the ground. That’s good because the ground was not that firm and I needed a hard spot on which to place my side stand. As it turns out, the rocks were depleted charcoal from an old campfire -- did I mention it was dark? When I put the side-stand down and let the bike go, it kept going. The FJR is a heavy bike: 670lbs full of fuel (which it was, and I had a top case). The bike was about halfway down before I managed to stop the fall. I was pretty much stuck holding the thing in a bad spot. I couldn’t get it up, but I didn’t want to drop it. It was just too heavy to lift back up while sitting on the seat. Fortunately, I managed to slide my right leg off the bike while bracing my left knee under the tank. At that point, I was able to get my back into the pushing and got it back up again. If my tent and crud had been strapped to the seat, it would have gone down. I’ve never dropped this bike and it would have been depressing to start. Alls well that ends well.
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| Harrisville Camp Site |
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| Fortress of Solitude |
Distance traveled today equals 494 miles.
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